By the time you notice its leaking there is not much hope for a cheap rebuild. For a true seal, the best set-up is two gapless rings in separate grooves. A lot of those cars run 6 bar of oil pressure, low turbos, and sump pumps. This is very popular in the Porsche cars. Or you can stack 2 rings back to back then offset the two gaps. Run a piston ring with a labyrinth lock for the gap. How many of these will blow out that seal? NONE!!! Next seal is the gapless ring. Things that it does not like, high crank case pressure, low perched turbos, too much oil pressure. Most popular is a single gap steel piston ring. Now, there are a few different types of seals for the turbine shaft.
There are still carbon seals uses today though. You really don’t have to worry about those systems anymore. That in return would pull the oil out of the turbocharger. Carburetors would have a high vacuum on the compressor seal. The carbon seals are originally for draw thru carburetor systems, low mounted turbos, and high pressure crank cast systems. Some have carbon seals on the compressor side. Just about all seals are steel piston rings. First off you didn’t blow the seal out of your turbocharger.
OK, so I figured I would write a post for you guys on this one. The next words are usually “I just need my seals replaced.” Hummm, no. When you run a turbocharger rebuild shop, you hear these 5 words a lot. Published by Tim Scott on “My turbo is leaking oil.”
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